Esme

Living Colour

Colours

COLOURS

I find the search for multi-hued organic colours endlessly fascinating. A visit to the grocery shop to buy food for dinner often turns into a hunt for a new dye colour. A walk in a park gets me wondering about the different trees I’m passing and what colours their leaves might possibly produce. Interestingly, what seems to be the most obvious sources, have little or no dye pigment, carrot juice being a good example; it’s intensely orange but only produces a disappointing pastel yellow on wool or silk yarns. Summer berries oozing deep ruby reds or bluish purples can stain your favourite shirt but then fade to a dull grey after a single wash. Onion skins are commonly used by dyers to produce rich gold-yellows, orange and olive green but these colours also quickly fade in the sun. In contrast my choice vegetable dye comes from dried avocado skins. These skins produce a range of pink and orange terra cotta as well as deep chocolate browns and each of these colours remained stable after undergoing tests for light and wash fastness.

What can natural dyes dye? Anything made with natural fibres such as wool, silk, cotton, flax, hemp, ramie, or abaca (banana stalk fibre), rope, wood, bone, hair and eggs. Natural dyes generally have little affinity for most synthetic yarns, nylon sometimes being an exception. Natural dyes are for artisans wanting to create their own unique colour palette, whether they felt, spin, knit, embroider, quilt, print on textiles, design clothes, make basketry, paper, bags, rugs, tapestries, fibre arts, or create jewellery from bone and wood. Textile conservators also use natural dyes when duplicating colours from the past for restoration purposes.Creating colours with natural dyes, much like cooking, is an alchemical process. Timing, temperature and ingredients, and in what order these ingredients are added, all affect the final colour. Coming up with new dye recipes to reveal hidden pigments can become rather absorbing. A recent discovery came from simmering green leaves that dyed silk yarns not green but beige, which then after a quick dip in wood ash and water, transformed the yarns into a screamingly bright yellow! Exciting and unexpected results like these await anyone wanting to make natural dyed colours.

An added challenge is to create colourfast recipes. It’s always disappointing to produce a beautiful colour only to find that it quickly fades or washes away. But, as I have found out, it can be done. This challenge of creating new dye recipes that are colourfast continues; it is exciting and inspiring each time a new colour emerges from the dye bath; and a joy when it proves to be colourfast! Over the years I’ve also discovered that many of the dye colours I’ve developed actually deepen after long exposure to sunlight. A combination of precise experimentation, traditional knowledge, creative insights and serendipitous discoveries continually adds to the enjoyment of making natural dyes.

These photos show just a few of the many colours I have developed over the years.

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What can natural dyes dye? Anything made with natural fibres such as wool, silk, cotton, flax, hemp, ramie, or abaca (banana stalk fibre), rope, wood, bone, hair and eggs. Natural dyes generally have little affinity for most synthetic yarns, nylon sometimes being an exception. Natural dyes are for artisans wanting to create their own unique colour palette, whether they felt, spin, knit, embroider, quilt, print on textiles, design clothes, make basketry, paper, bags, rugs, tapestries, fibre arts, or create jewellery from bone and wood. Textile conservators also use natural dyes when duplicating colours from the past for restoration purposes.Creating colours with natural dyes, much like cooking, is an alchemical process. Timing, temperature and ingredients, and in what order these ingredients are added, all affect the final colour. Coming up with new dye recipes to reveal hidden pigments can become rather absorbing. A recent discovery came from simmering green leaves that dyed silk yarns not green but beige, which then after a quick dip in wood ash and water, transformed the yarns into a screamingly bright yellow! Exciting and unexpected results like these await anyone wanting to make natural dyed colours.

An added challenge is to create colourfast recipes. It’s always disappointing to produce a beautiful colour only to find that it quickly fades or washes away. But, as I have found out, it can be done. This challenge of creating new dye recipes that are colourfast continues; it is exciting and inspiring each time a new colour emerges from the dye bath; and a joy when it proves to be colourfast! Over the years I’ve also discovered that many of the dye colours I’ve developed actually deepen after long exposure to sunlight. A combination of precise experimentation, traditional knowledge, creative insights and serendipitous discoveries continually adds to the enjoyment of making natural dyes.

These photos show just a few of the many colours I have developed over the years.

Pastel, Ultramarine & Prussian Blue

Turquoise & Grey Blue

Khaki, Sage & Pea Green

Salmon & Orange

Sea Green

Purple & Plum

Raspberry & Pastel Pink

Poppy & Ruby Red

Burgundy & Violet

Dove Grey & Blue Black

Smoke & Silver

Plum, Bronze, Slate & Dark Grey

Golden Yellows

Chocolate & Dark Brown

Pink, Beige & Pink

Terra Cotta & Mahogany

Copper

Mocha & Camel

Cream & Sand

Ivory & Stone

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Esme Hedrick-Wong
222 Meyer Road
Salt Spring Island, B.C.
Canada V8K 1X4

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E-mail: esme@esmelivingcolour.com

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Esme Hedrick-Wong

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